Hola friends,  all is well here in sunny Spain. Today, 

Sunday , was an incredibly beautiful day made even more 

beautiful by the full moon this morning. I made an effort 

to start walking this morning while it was still  dark and 

I could walk on the Meseta in Spain under the light of the 

full moon. Pinch me now. Is this for real?  It was glorious.  

And as the moon was setting, the sun was rising. I am 

grateful and blessed and I don't think one can say that 

often enough.  I walked from Calzadilla de la Cueza  to 

Sahagun. A total of about 22.5 k or about 13 miles.  When 

I stopped along the path to admire the sunset a guy I saw 

in the Alburgue stopped to take it in as well and we ended 

up walking  together all day.  I love meeting people on 

the Camino because there is an instant bond and everyone 

has a story.  Brett lives in Virginia back from Louisiana 

after retiring from the military at 40.  He is a consummate 

traveler and will be living in Santiago after he finishes 

his Camino until march.  It was delightful day made even 

more so by the chatting we did from philosophy to politics.  

At one of the crossroads before we got into the city there 

was a man handing out flyers about an alburgue b we took one 

and decided to check it out because it had a kitchen and I 

have been walking with some heavy canned tuna , tomatoes, 

onion and olives I needed to eat.  So we stopped and from 

the outside I thought oh no this is going to be way too 

expensive.   Wrong !!! It was a large room with bunkbeds 

fir 7 euros. The hotel part for a private room was more but 

for pilgrims in bunkbed mode it is great. Clean great showers 

and 4 of them to boot.   I am a happy camper.  Tomorrow 

leaving here and probably walking to Calzadilla de Los 

Hermanillos or El Burgo Ranero.  Have to go now.  Will 

right more later.   Love Camille on the Camino.  Carpe Diem

Hola friends
  Every day finds me in a totally different circumstance here

on the Camino. In  this moment I am in an alburgue in calzadilla

de la cueza sitting in the sun with a guy washing his car in the

yard and blasting loud Spanish music with alot of bass.  Go figure

. There is a small swimming pool but It is way too windy and chilly

to even contemplate a plunge.  Even my feet resist dipping in.   

Today was a long long day on the Meseta. Quite beautiful but long nonetheless. We started at 7 when it is dark and made it to the

next town a little after 8. That town was  called carrion and if

was a much larger town than villalcazar de Sirga the village i was

in last evening Friday. We were worried we would have rain, but

the clouds stayed until early afternoon and then the sun danced

with them the res of the day.   Yesterday was an interesting day. 

We took an alternate route and didn't see alot of people which is

odd as ther are days when we see people  along the trail, especially when there  is an incline and you can see all the pilgrims spread

out in front of you.  We all tend to cycle in and out of each others orbits and it always a joyful moment to see a Camino friend you

haven't seen for awhile.  We stayed in a municipal alburgue and it

is always a gamble as to how it might be. This one was a delight. 

The hospitelero  or people who check you in were very kind and personable.  at one point when I came in after dinner there  were

what I believe to be mourning doves cooing outside the alburgue.  I came into the foyer mimicking their sound and asking my hosts their name in Spanish.   it was called Paloma female or palomo male. I made an owl imitation And my Spanish friends were very clear that the

sound was not an owl.  We laughed and had a great time trying to communicate withe gestures word and animal sounds. At the bar/restaurant where I was havin cafe co n leche and charging my

phone I met Rose from Washington state and Christian from Utah. Christian is a writer and we all had a great time discussing books

and hanging out.  This alburgue had a kitchen , not all of them do

so when we came back to our room there was alot of cooking going on

and lots of aromas.  Sleeping in a community bedroom is quite an experience. One that I am getting used to , primarily because of my

new best friends ear plugs. A necessity on this trip.  People have asked me what I brought that I wished I hadn't or what did j wish

I bad brought.  I didn't need my tin cup and little plug in water heater for tea but I wish I would have brought an extra shirt and

pants or a shirt and skirt for the evening.  You get tired if

wearing your hiking pants all the time.  I had a pair of lounge / pajama bottoms I left somewhere so I might look for some leggings

or something. I could Also  use them for layering if it gets too

cold.  Well it is getting time to think about dinner. InM really

no too hungry but will probably go in tithe bar anyway. 

Lobe to you all. Camille on the Camino.   Carpe Diem.
 

Hola dear ones.  I am sitting out on a patio in Boadilla del Camino population 140. I called ahead today to reserve beds in a private Refugio called En El Camino a family owned Refugio and restaurant. The grounds are amazing with an en closed Area complete withsculptures, iron art works, flowers, old trees and even a small kidney shaped swimming pool which has absolutely no appeal to me as it is chilly today.  There has been a definite shift in the weather and we now start our day wearing our fleece and our wool hats. Today it wasn't until 12ish that I removed my fleece.  This compound has multiple buildings and the one we are staying in is a renovated old barn with beams and a beautiful tile floor.  It also has a lounge area where we can sit and relax.  I've come to realize how much I need a bit of space around me. In the mornings when we get up around 6 or 6:30 I find I want to be in a small area to organize and ground myself before I start the day.  This morning back pack bonding ritual sets the tone for the day for me. The early morning hush, dark sky and stars is a gentle way to mark the beginning of the next adventure.    Yesterday evening after we got settled in our Refugio and I staked my claim on the bottom bunk And then went for tea and wrote my post for the day , I decided to walk down to the church we passed when we came into town. It is called Iglesias Santa Maria ex  collegiate Church of Our Lady of the Apple N.S. Mazano XIVth c with a huge beautiful rose stained glass window you could see from the outside.  What you could 't see from the outside were the treasures within.  This  church has recently been Renovated as a museum of sacred art specific to Mary magdalene. It was stunning with classical music softly olaying as I walked slowly around the church and the little side rooms.  There was a large old pipe organ that I was drooling over.  Many of you probably don't know that I used to be the organist for our little country church in Dudley and six mile run. An old pump organ in the one church that I played weekly when inwas in high school. Needless to say it did not compare with this one in any way.    Okay I digress get  back to the current story. It was a peaceful way to  end my day.  Although that isn't all. When you first walked into Castrojeriz and almost directly across from the church there was a private home with a magnificent flower garden with a palette of vibrant colors. Bright pink and  orange and purple zinnias and huge pumpkins still on the vine. There was a stone wall and  A wrought iron gate with fountain and ferns and an  old stone home with benches out front. Needless to say I took many photos and was quite pleased to see an elderly couple sitting on the benches as I  left the church.  In my very limited Spanish I told them how beautiful their garden was and thanked them for the gift of living art.  It seems that the elderly man did most of the planting and when I told them I was a peregrina we sat and looked at my guide book together.  These chance encounters with the gracious people of this country deepen my experience and warm my heart. Appreciation in any language binds us together. Another gift I'm learning from the Camino.  This morning was another  glorious morning with a kick butt hike from the bowl of this little town back up onto the Meseta. Some of the towns sit down in a bit of a valley and we hike down into and up out of them. This morning's climb gave us an awesome 180 degree view and a little rest area at the top before we continued our 11.9 mile hike which is close enough to 12 for me to say we walked 12 miles again today.     I am craving a very hot pot of tea. I had a cup today , but the cup was  too small for my liking and it was gone way too fast for me to enjoy holding the warm cup in my hands, one of the main reasons i love hot beverages. Tomorrow we might hike 25 kilometers to carron de Los condes or we might stop at villalcazar de Sirga  we'll decide after we get moving tomorrow. I am hoping for a clear night Friday or Saturday as Saturday is the full moon.  It would be glorious to see it on the Meseta. Okay now I'm sitting in the sun soaking it up. This  dance i am having with the duality of the elements is fascinating. I love the organic and raw relationship I am developing with the sun. Wind, rain, stones, mud, cold, hot, dusty , dry , clear. Stars , sunflowers, wheat, moon, pavement, plants, flowers. All of it.  I could go on and on. My senses are alive and serving me well once again I'm grateful.  Lu sent me a note saying I  signed off yesterday with Camille in the Camino. Have I shifted to  now being a part of the Camino.   Great question.  Thank you Lu. So for today love to you all from Camille in and on the Camino. Carpe Diem.

 Hola dear friends. Today finds us in Castrojeriz another little 

town along the Meseta.  Last night we had a long and rowdy rain 

storm and Gay  and I were grateful for our bed in the sports center 

also known as a gym. A large group of young Korean students huddled 

like a bunch of puppies in the center on mattresses as there were no 

more cots available. They were a riot.  Although we were chilly and 

slept in our clothes and fleece, we were dry and out of the elements. 

The Meseta is known for it's open vast wheat fields and big sky, but 

it is also known as a place  of extremes.  A number of pilgrims we 

met on the way decided to skip the Meseta all together.  Gay and I 

never considered that in our plans.  It is a beautiful place and has 

a unique character of it's own.  There are some trees and undulating 

hills and the big big sky.  Back to the challenge.  I knew that the 

sun and heat could be our biggest challenge and of course the worry 

that we would not  have enough water as the towns are not close together. 

surprisingly however it turns out that the wind and mud from the 

previous night's storm was our Meseta challenge of the day.  It 

could change tomorrow and the sun could pay a visit, but today was 

wind, mud, and cold. 

I am sitting in a lovely little bar cafe where the owner gave me a cup 

of hot water for the tea bag I had with me and when I went to pay he 

wasn't sure what to  charge me for hot water. As I grabbed a handful 

of change I had an American quarter mixed in. He picked it up and 

asked what  it was and so I  gave it to him. He seemed pleased and 

he also let  me plug in my phone  to charge as I write this.  Every 

Refugio or Albergue is very different. You really never know what 

the municipal alburgues will offer although our guide book tries to 

offer some information.  So today we decided to try the one the book 

said was a traditional (original) pilgrim hostel. An atmospheric 

local hostel run by Hospitalero Resti one of the Camino's enduring 

characters,  well Resti isn't there and although the place is old, 

it is rather Spartan. They do have a great space for us to do laundry 

with wooden all wooden wash boards and a great place to hang out our 

clothes.  I really have come to appreciate the simple things. 

And they had laundry soap for us to use. Whooooo!!!!!!  It took 

me awhile to settle into this place especially when I realized I 

would  be in a top bunk, no rails, and a very low ceiling. I tweaked 

my situation a bit and told the hospitelero  I was not able to climb 

up to the top and had to have a bottom bunk.  It was the no rails 

that forced that card.  A couple of days ago a man we met fell 

out of a top bunk and broke his hip.  Sooo I am in a bottom bunk 

which means not too far to fall.   So tomorrow  we leave here and 

walk to Boadilla del Camino about 20 k or 12 miles  away.  I called 

ahead to reserve a room in a private alburgue which I think will be 

a notch up from the one we are staying in tonite.  We like to mix it 

up.  Its all part of the Camino.  Well time to go. Love to you all. 

Carpe Diem. Camille in the Camino. 
 

.

Hola dear ones,   Well well well here we are in Hornillos 

after a 12.6 mile walk from Burgos.  We started the Meseta 

today which is a high plateau with open wheat fields and big 

sky. Gay feels quite at home here as she grew up in Kansas. 

I love the open vast feeling of it all and o can feel that 

opening inside me as well. We were accompanied today by the 

blustery and constant energy if the wind.  I love the wind 

and it energizes me and clears out any co webs in my brain. 

We were walking into the wind and thus is the first time 

we've really spent an entire day embraced by this element. 

The Meseta is wide open so the gusts were not hindered in 

any way and  were amazing and i found myself hooting and 

hollering on occasion.  I know on all levels that I can not 

choose the weather, but when you are in the elements the 

ranking of what you prefer come into play. For example the 

wind was unexpected and I had not really considered what 

walking the Meseta with wind would be like as I was so 

focused on how it would be to walk  the Meseta with the 

hot hot sun. All in all it is what it is. Little me in 

this Wondrous magi al world of the elements. My gift is 

to embrace it al and accept what is.  Which brings me to 

today's accommodations.  Our friend Gerri who did the 

Camino in May and June gave us some head up on various 

alburgues along he Camino.  She has vi en a bug no to 

the Uni Joan Albergue in this town, but when we arrived 

here the nice hostel was full and were slowly made our 

way to the municipal alburgue.  Well it too was full and 

we now find ourselves on cots in the empty sports building. 

It is big and cold and it is a shelter.  Shortly after we 

arrived and began to laugh at this scenario the wind picked 

up  and it began to rain.   Soooo, ideal, no way !!! 

Enough, you bet. !!!!   We'll bundle up,  get a cup of 

tea, go to bed early and move on to our next adventure. 

The accoustics are amazing in here and our German friend 

Petra is humming a lovely  song as I write.  Ah the simple 

pleasures of life. It reminds me to find joy in everything. 

Yesterday in Burgos I was in the square writing post cards 

and sitting next to a woman and her 2 daughters. 

The little one  a bit fussy and her mama was singing to her. 

She must have been About 1 1/2  or 2 years old.  I caught 

her eye and  she and her sister who was about 5 came sidling 

over  to me.  I connected to her by the universally undertstood 

language of art.  Draw me a picture ,  which she did and I 

still have her little squiggles.  Her mama graciously allowed 

me to take a photo of the girls and we were all beaming when 

I left.   And then of course being the man magnet that I am, 

I look up to see another octogenarian smiling and flirting with me, 

taking my hand and pulling me in close.  My  no able espanole 

did not help and I was rescued by a young woman who overheard 

me asking where I could post a letter.  Come on, something's 

gotta give here. Older men yes but there  is a limit here. 

Gay and I surprised ourselves today by making it to Hornillos. 

We were going to stop in Rabe  de las Calzadas but we arrived 

there around 11 this morning and that was too  early to stop. 

So we continued on and are sleepingin our very own personal 

basket ball court.  As of today we have walked 237.3 miles 

and have been walking for 19 days.  Amazing.  I glad to be 

out walking again. Although our time in Burgos was great i 

prefer  the smaller villages and the old prt of those villages. 

Soon inwill wander outside if the rain has stopped and go for 

a hit drink, make a visit to the village church which is always 

lovely and write in my journal.  No laundry today. It won't dry. 

Okay that all for mow n love to you all and as always. Carpe Diem. 

Camille on the Camino. There are many more people arriving. 

I am grateful for my humble bed.  
 

Hi   

Life is good an I am so grateful my body is holding up.  We are in Burgos the first big city since Pamplona.  We decided to stay an extra day to visit the cathedral and rest.  It seems very odd to not be walking, especially since it is such a beautiful day here, cool and breezy. I am sitting on a bench in a city park. The siesta time should be ending soon and I might be able to pick up a few things.  The cathedral here was magnificent and the antiquity of the art  and sculptures beyond description.  I was a bit overwhelmed.  It seems odd not to be walking and I miss it. Connie our walking buddy we met in St Jean with the bad feet  decided to take  a bus past the meseta the high open plain and try to walk a slower  pace to Santiago. We might   catch up with her at some point.  We keep running into people we've met at various places.   There are alot of people with injuries and i am so grateful for my strength and stamina. I  will never take that for granted again.  We were also blessed at the beginning of our journey.  We had picture perfect weather over the Pyrnees when people who started a couple of days after us had rain no visibility and  were falling and sliding on  the  path love Camille

Hola everyone , 

Well we made it to Burgos.  15.5 miles today. We left 

around 6:15 am and arrived at the Albergue around 1:45.  Not too shabby 

7.5 hours walking with 2 short breaks.  The long walk today was well worth 

our extra time waiting in San Juan for the equinox.   Being at that chur h 

with a large group of local villagers , fellow pilgrims. Bused in people 

from Madrid, children, elders, all there to witness this mystery of light 

that occurs only on the Spring and fall equinox.  To sit in such an old old 

cathedral waiting for  the light is difficult to describe. Gay and I went 

about 45 minutes early so we would have a seat in the side chapel where this 

was to occur. There  was a mass at 6 with the light illuminating the carving 

of Mary's visitation from the angel in the ascension story happening between 

7 to 7 :20.   As j said in an earlier post to be there on that  particular 

town at that specific time of year to witness such an event was a wonderful 

gift. This church is large with multiple arches and high high ceilings. I 

can't quite wrap my mind around the computations that must have been done 

and then translated into  such a magnificient building in order for this to 

occur. I am certainly more curious about sacred geometry after viewing this. 

Our accommodations at the Alburgue were minimal at best but i slept well with 

my ear plug friends and had energy to get an early start this morning.  We 

were rewarded with a magnificent sunrise while walking through an area that 

reminded me of the Cumberland valley.  Our next great surprise to reward us 

after a climb up what appeared to be limestone rock path was a simple cross. 

We have seen numerous crosses along our way , but shortly after the cross on 

a flat top, almost meadow like, except for the fact that it was a rocky meadow, 

was a large labrinth painstakingly laid out with a spiral of rocks  circling 

into the center.  In the center was a rock with the saying "feel the present, 

frame the past." a stick with a boot on top of it  and other mementos left by 

pilgrims.  The labyrinth was so unexpected  and we were delighted. Little 

delights are all  along the way.  For the rest of the walk we were escorted 

by the wind.  A welcome companion to help temper the sun.  We knew the lovely 

beginning of our day walking would eventually give way to concrete and cityscape. 

It was a long walk on concrete and asphalt and our search for an alternate 

route that was listed in our guide book along the river was confusing.  When 

I stopeda local man to ask him where the river was in my very  limited Spanish, 

He graciously walked with us until he could show us the way.  Ah the kindness 

of strangers.   When we finally saw the cathedral we knew the Albergue was not 

far away and  I  could breathe a sigh of relief and let my tiredness seep in 

knowing a bed and shower was nearby.  So laundry done , shower done , writing 

to you and in my journal done. Gay and i hope to meet up with  our friend from 

Canada at 7 in the plaza. She has been resting here fir a couple of days with 

bad feet.   I hope she is doing better.  I feel blessed I am holding up although 

I  take nothing for granted.  Much love  to you all.  We will stay an extra day 

here to rest up and be tourists before we start heading out and into the Meseta. 

Love Camille carpe diem 

Hello everyone. We set off this morning from  Villa Franca around 6:15 

it was dark when we started and we had to use our head lamps. The sky

was clear and the stars bright andbeautifiul. Without the ambient light

the stars are luminous. We walked until around 8ish when we stopped to 

have a picnic breakfast and watch the sun rise.  We were at a higher 

elevation today so the sun rose a bit later AND it is the Autumnal equinox.

A very auspicious day.  So much so that we made an impromptu change of plans. 

Here in san Juan there us a church called 

Happy autumnal equinox everyone. !!  We have had an impromptu change of plans 

on our journey. We were intending to walk from Villafranca to  Atapuerca today 

but when we walked through St  Juan de Ortega we realized that this was a special 

day here in this small village.   There was an Augustinian monastery founded here 

in 1150. The chapel is dedicated  to San Nicolas de Barri who saved San Juan from 

drowning on his way back from pilgrimage to the Holy Land and Is constructed in 

such a way that at each equinox, Spring and Autumn the rays of the setting sun 

strike the Virgin Mary in the scene of the annunciation that is carved into a 

pillar.  This was only re-discovered in 1974. So, what are the chances that we 

would be passing through this particular village on this particular day ? 

We thought about it and although it will make for a long day tomorrow to Burgos, 

we decided to stay here in San Juan attend the pilgrims mass and be present for 

he miracle of celestial light. There are about 4 or 5 of us  who decided to stay 

over just for this.  There is really nothing here in this village but a cafe 

the old monastery a well worn refugio and the church.  So, the Camino works in 

mysterious ways.  Our friend Connie from Canada took a bus to Burgos because 

her feet were hurting her too much with swelling and blisters.  We hope a few 

days rest and a new pair of shoes will enable her to join us for the rest of 

the journey. I am sitting outside the church in a shady nook overlooking a 

verrrry sunny plaza. The only odd aspect to this otherwise famiiar picture 

of pilgrims sitting at a cafe bar and backpacks lining the walls is a large 

tour bus   I imagine there are people here waiting for the equinox event thus 

evening although  for the life  of me  I haven't seen any people other than 

pilgrims. We will probably spend an extra day in Burgos as we won't get in 

there until mid afternoon tomorrow. It will  be our longest  day of 25 kilometers. 

I'm grateful for the simple pace and place in this village  before our entry 

into a big city.  In the meantime honor this day of balance in your own way 

knowing that the wisdom of the cycles and seasons is constant in our lives. 

Much love to you all. Carpe Diem Camille on the Camino 
 
 

Just realized I am a say off. Today is Friday. I am aoo confuses 

and it is my fathers birthday.  Happy birthday dad.  I feel you 

presence with me here on the Camino and I thank you for your gift 

if physical strength and stamina.  Every time I ate a wild raspberry 

while on the Camino I invoked a memory you and all those berries you 

picked for us growing up.  So my calculations were a bit off but next 

week we will be in Burgos and then the Meseta.  Be fir now.  
 

Hola To all of you. Here it is I believe Thursday our 14th day on the 

Camino. This morning was overcast and foggy with low temperatures and 

of course no sun.  It felt glorious to walk with the subdued weather. 

Because we decided to have an easy day walking from Belorado to 

Villafranca  de Montes de Oca  a total of about 12 k or about 7 1/2 

miles we took our time walking in a leisurely fashion taking lots of 

photos stopping for cafe con leche which we usually do after we've 

walked a bit. We also felt less pressure because we called ahead to 

reserve a room in a private alburgue. The municipal alburgues are 

usually larger with multiple bunk beds up to 50 or 75 or more in 

one or two large rooms and they will not let you reserve ahead. 

They are very cheap price wise from a donation to 5 euros.  The private 

alburgues are much smaller and sometimes offer alot of amenities. 

They take reservations and can range in price from 5 to 25 or 30 euros 

per person.  We have been using a Camino Frances guide book by John 

Brierley called a pilgrims guide to the Camino de Santiago covering 

the Camino from St Jean to Santiago.  It is full of invaluable 

information from directions to historical information to the maps 

and mileage to the names of the towns where the cafes  are located 

and names of places to stay with the phone numbers.  So because we 

have the phone numbers and my cell phone has been cooperating as of 

late,  We were able to call ahead and reserve an alburgue attached 

to a luxury hotel.  So at this moment I am tucked away in a very 

 nook on the 2nd or 3rd floor of this hotel.  My accommodations which 

are much more modest are tucked in the back and I'm sure I probably 

should not be up here with my pilgrim clothing and dishelved look, 

but as  I said I am tucked away  and  here I am until told otherwise. 

Ah once again the paradox of the Camino.  It says in the guide book 

that the owner of this lovely hotel walked the Camino himself and 

wanted to give back so he apportioned a section of his hotel to pilgrims. 

The name of this place is San Anton Abad  and I offer a great thank you 

to this generous person. A bunk bed was 5 euros and a single bed was 

10 euros.  We have a small kitchen and laundry facilities. I feel the 

urge for a cup of tea coming upon me.  Perhaps a bit later.  A highlight 

of today was coming upon a very large field of sunflowers that were 

still in flower form and not all dried up ready for harvest.  Steig 

from Canada and Elmarie  from Australia who met on the Camino and have 

become a couple were the first ones to seize this amazing photo op, 

with Grace  a woman from connecticut, gay and I following suit.  The 

beauty of the flowers was enhanced by the artistic work of  Many 

pilgrims who pulled different petals from the flower face to form 

words and images.  So imagine a large field of sunflowers with different 

sections near the front looking like a sunflower art gallery.  We had a 

blast posing and laughing .   All of this is bittersweet because we 

may never cross paths with these people again.  Steig has to leave in a 

few days and Elmarie is busing to Burgos.  Our connections are brief 

sometimes on the Camino but their memories and teachings can last forever. 

Tomorrow will be a bit more of a challenge as we have some mountains to 

cross with the highest peak a bit over 1150 meters. It should be a beautiful 

walk through the woods.  We won't stay in San Juan but will more than likely 

continue on to Ages or Atapuerca which will be on Friday and then we will 

probably be in Burgos by Saturday or Sunday.   We haven't talked about 

whether we will stay an extra day in Burgos but what comes up after Burgos 

is the Meseta. We  will probably begin the Meseta next week. It is a high 

plateau that is open and vast and can bring those same qualities to a 

person if they desire. Well  it is about 2:30 here and I must shower and 

explore.  Much love to you all,  Camille on the Camino
 

Hello everyone. I am sitting in the back yard of the Alburgue wherewe 

are staying in Belorado. Thank you Gerri Myers for the suggestion of 

this alburgue called Cuatro Cantones.  It is a beautiful place with 

a restaurant as well and from the smells coming from the kitchen a 

good one.  When you are walking every day and depending  on the 

kindness of other pilgrims and the local villagers and life flows 

in a generous way you become tuned in and aware of the small gifts.

This might sound silly  but today a gift showed up through good 

ole ATT my phone provider.  I' ve been having trouble with my phone

working in a consistent manner but today she came through. 

We had a long day today of about 14.2 miles  through rolling 

golden cut wheat fields and sunflower fields ready for harvest

but it was also on dirt gravel track parallel to a big  highway

similiar To 81 and in full sun.   We decided we would stop at a 

village before Belorado called Vilamayor del Rio but there were no

available alburgues.  We stopped at an upscale restaurant that also 

sells local food and art where we came in contact with our first rude

local.  Maybe he figured by looking at us that we were not going to 

be big ticket customers.  He was rude however the food was awesome. 

I had a tomato onion tuna salad no lettuce with olive oil and it was 

the biggest tomato i've ever seen.  I mean it was the size of a melon.

Mmmmmm   And fresh squeezed orange juice so full of pulp it was like 

rocket fuel for my energy.  Anyway. Back to my story. While at this 

restaurant i decided to try to call the Refugio AGAIN as I was not 

successful in earlier attempts.  Here is the Camino gift.  I got through, 

he had 3 spots and we were in !!!!!   Sometimes if you don't get into 

town by 2 or 3 the choices for a nice place to stay diminishes and you

end up Ina place that is minimal at best.    Well the funny part of all 

this is we are staying in a private room. Gay Connie and I on mattresses

on the floor , but get this, it's the massage room!! How synchronistic 

us that?   It smells great and I've been sniffing the potions but I think 

they are only mSaage oils and not hallucinogenic.   When i get to Santiago

and don't have to carry everything win me I'm going shopping for some 

Spanish potions. So that's my story.  Gay and Connie went off to the 

pharmacy to get some help for Connie's feet she has a nasty blister 

blooming. I have red feet and a small hot spot on one toe but so far 

so good. Last evening in Santo Domingo they had a festival celebrating

the culmination of a week of festivals in the region honoring the wine 

harvest. There were people roaming about the streets everywhere with a 

wandering brass band playing what sounded to me like German polka music. 

In fact one German friend and I attempted a polka.  They were handing 

out free sausages and the men were swilling wine from glass pitchers

with a thin spout. I got pictures of all of it.  Check out the rooster

and chicken myth of santo Domingo on line.  They really do keep a coop

and have the cock crow in the church.   Because we had such a late lunch

today we will probably snack for dinner.   They offer a  pilgrim meal here 

tonite  as a community dinner but they were full when we got here. Tomorrow 

might be a light day as we haven't had one since we started and today was our

14th day of walking. If we walk the suggested route tomorrow it would be a 

total of 15 miles over some high elevation so we will more than likely divide 

it up.  I will close for now. Oh I am soooo into cafe con leche.  How  can

I ever drink coffee with cold milk again?    Love to you and and as always

I carry you all in my heart.   Camille on the Camino oh at the festival

I walked around the corner into the plaza and It was full of kids jumping 

in those big inflatable jumping things we have at festivals.  I love the 

similarities of our lives. Bit is truly a small world and heartfelt

connection is the binding thread.  Bye for now.  
 

Hello all. I am sitting in a small plaza outside a cafe in Santo Domingo 

del Cazada. There is a chill in the air and a slight breeze.  I 've done 

laundry,showered and am enjoying some down time.  We are staying in a 

large modern refugio  operated by the Spanish Cofraternity  It has 210

beds spread over 3 floors with kitchen facilities and a lounge with tv 

which at the moment is not on thank god.  I am now inside as it is cold 

outside.   It is such a great thrill to see so many familiar faces as well

as many many new ones.  People seem to cycle through at various times and

towns.  Today's walk was about 12 miles through the last of the grape 

orchards. The sun rise was very different as it reflected off the Red 

jagged mountain ranges in the distance.  Sometimes I could imagine that

I am in the southwest of the US as the landscape sometimes is so similar.

The funniest sign we saw today was in a rest area with the image of a 

person squatting and a slash line through it saying prohibido defecar.

Which means don't shit. Needless to say we were hysterical and had to 

take photos of us in the defecar position.    We also  walked through a

town that seemed like a ghost town of fairly new construction with a 

golf course and country club but no people.  The houses looked  like 

dormitories or square boxes nothing like we would imagine for a community

with a pool and club.  I imagine thus idea all fell apart with the down

turn in the Spanish economy.  They did have the first wind solar generator 

at this golf course.   Of course I took pictures of these that you will

see one day.  I'm not techno enough to get them off to you.  We've been

walking with a guy named Andy from Australia who has playful spirit and

a technical mind that is awe inspiring.  He has gadgets and is great at

photos and videos on  the Camino.  last evening he introduced us all to

the local version of a penny candy store.  We went crazy buying the 

Spanish version of all your favorite penny candy, many of which I enjoyed

on my walk today.   I was talking to Barb yesterday when I tried to see 

if my phone would work and actually got through to the office.  In our 

conversation I was telling her with great joy about how the hostel we were

staying in had Real Towels and Clean sheets and pillow sheets not made out 

Of paper and an awesome shower and bathroom.  I have come to appreciate 

these simple luxuries on the Camino and want to remember to appreciate 

them just as much when I return.  Well have to go know we are gathering

for dinner.   Love to you all.  Camille to the Camino   If I have a

chance I'll write again this evening but we re usually in bed by 10. 

 Love to you all. 
 

Hello everyone,
 

All is well in Spain.  We walked a little over 11 miles today from Navarette to 

Najera with a nice break in Ventosa for breakfast.  It was a gloriously cloudy day

with quite a bit of wind and it felt great. The walk today could have been another 

scorcher for us without the wind and cloud cover.  We walked through miles of grape

vineyards, I almost called them orchards because there is an amazing similarity 

between the vineyards here and the orchards in Adams county.  There were wine coops,

and a few days ago workers in the field harvesting and even a John Deere tractor. 

I definitely took a photo of that. The grapes are delicious as it is nearly 

impossible to resist snagging a few as you walk by the abundance you see along

the path.   Last evening we had amazing tapas in a local Tapas bar on the Plaza. 

Octopus, a potato dish, rolled egg plant, mushrooms, and some great bread.  Later 

in the evening I decided to go to the pilgrims mass in the local church.  I am in 

awe of these small  village churches. It is obvious that the the villagers are very 

proud of their churches, and they have every reason to be.   Last night when I

walked  into the cathedral and they are all very old ,highly vaulted stone

cathedrals, I was stunned.  This little village housed an amazing array of 

artifacts and because the mass was a pilgrims mass , the priest gave us all a

blessing and took us back to the chambers where he gave us a personal tour of 

their most valued treasures.   The cathedral was a 16th Century church of the

Assumption.  Certainly not the oldest church we've seen , but the gold nave 

interior at the front of the church where the altar was located was breath

taking when illuminated.  There was a similiar church in Los Arcos with the 

gold interior and as striking as these are , it is the small simple churches 

that  I visit that have a quiet spirituality that has  as powerful an impact 

as the gilded ones.  I   love  the contrasts in this country.   We are staying 

in a lovely hostel with 9 beds all on the same plane read NO BUNK BEDS. 

It is clean spacious with sheets and towels and a great shower and bath tub.

We are very very lucky to get a space in this town.   The municipal alburgue 

is not known to be that great, but we just  heard it is full  Our place is now 

full with 2 men from Australia, one man from palm springs California  2 women 

from Canada one woman from Vienna and one woman from Germany and of course we 

2 Americans. 
 

Hi All you Camino followers.  Bear with me if I repeat myself.  I don´t always remember what I write.  I guess I could check my blog.  What a thought.   My brain is definitely in non-thinking mode after a long day of hiking.   Last evening Gay, Connie, Ian and I had a delightful pilgrims dinner in a very nice restaurant with lovely linen table cloths, nabkins, and lovely wine glasses.  Needless to say this has not been our usualy eating environment although there have been many  many lovely meals and places that hosted them.   We had cod in a Rioja sauce which is a red sauce with minced vegetables and the ever present french fries.  Not the abundance of french fries that we get in the states, but 7 or so to add to the meal.  Most of the salads I´´ve had include olives, tuna, egg, mixed greens and tomatoes with balsamic and olive oil.  They are quite substantial and I love love love having some greens.  For 12 euros you get a 3 course meal which is very filling.  Usually the desserts are scrumptious  and I splurge after all this walking.  Last evening I thought I would be more healthy in my choice and I ordered fruit, as did the rest of my group.  We were totally surprised when our waitress came out and placed a whole apple on our lovely plate.  The contrast between the rest of the meal and the apple was hysterical.   Just goes to show you how our minds and preconceived beliefs collide with reality.  We all sliced our lovely apples and finished a delightful meal with good company and good spirits before shuffling off to bed. 
     Today was an interesting day.  We left Viana this morning around 6:30 and arrived in Navarette around 2:00 or 2:30.   Walking daily has given me the gift of embracing nature in a manner that is deeper and more raw/organic.   I love it and am in awe of how much I miss in my daily life.  We started out walking in the dark this morning and had to use flashlights and adlamps.  The trail was through the village and out into the country side where everything opens up and you get to see the sky.  The sunrise this morning was gentle and soft with the background lights twinkling in the background.   As we continued on the landscape opened up again and we found ourselves walking on road and bicycle paths through the city of Logrono.  We stopped for breakfast, a Spanish Tortilla and coffee con leche brfore walking through the busy busy city with all its sounds.   They seem so much louder and harsh since we´ve been out in the country or in little villages the past few days.   A high light of the morning was when a local woman was passing us, she stopped, opened her arms wide and with this beautifc smile and great sincerity looked us in the eye and said twice BUEN CAMINO.  It brought tears to my eyes and does even now when I think of it.   The rest of the day of through Rioja country, which is a wine region.   So fields and fields of grape vines which also translates to sun sun sun and little shade.  You would think we are getting used to this by now and I think I am, or at least I´ve come to expect it and as usual smile when I see a tree and the shade it affords.   We struggled up a hill to the first alburgue, which I must say is a disappointment. Crowded with no green space outside and not real place to bond with your pack, not my pack of people, but my best friend, my osprey pack moxia the marvelous,  something I seem to do daily.   But, I got over it after a moments rest on my top bunk, which I am used to at this point, I am showered, clothes laundered and connecting with you all before we venture into the old town of the city for some food.  I love your posts back and I am happy to hear you are enjoying mine.  As always thank you and I leave with  my new\old favoriate  saying Carpe Diem, something I am certainly doing here on the Camino.   Much love to you all,  Camille on the Camino

Okay I´m back, I got some more change.  You get 15 minutes on a computer for 50 euro, and it is faster for me than typing on my iphone.   The walk today had a different beauty.  Harsh in one way, almost similiar to the South West with mountain ranges in the distance.  When I see those I wonder if I will be crossing them at some point.   Another lesson is to alway look back from way you´ve been and then turn around and move forward.  It is amazing to look behind and see how far we´ve walked.  There are numerous times when you can see the trail and pilgrims strung out all along  in the distance.  Yesterday in Los Arcos I went to the local catherdral in the square and was in awe of its beauty.  Very very ornate with gold filigree everywhere.  I went to the special Pilgrims mass where they call up all the pilgrims walking the Camino and the priest offers a blessing for our safe journey.  When I first when into the church the bells were pealing and the plaza was full of locals and pilgrims dining outside and when I came out an hour later it was still packed with people.  The alburgue we stayed in last evening was Okay, but Connie a woman from Canada who has joined Gay and I on our walk, was bitten with bed bugs.  I didn´t have any bites, but today I sprayed my sleeping bag with a rather aromatic organic spray.  Awhile ago I went out to try to use the pay phone to call my mother, yes they still have them, of which I am grateful as att has failed me, and after we stopped to have some refreshment at a bar.  There were three of us sitting at a table with our feet on chairs and an empty table beside us with chairs.   A local man obviously enjoying his large Brandy looked at that tabel and then went over to sit on the ledge across the walk.  I motioned for him to sit at that table and of course he assumed I was asking him to join us.  !!!  Oh dear,  Camille and her friendly ways.  It was harmless and he eventually got the message when we let him know we were planning our next day and couldn´t speak Spainish, but it was funny, be picking up old geezers in Spain.     Another image was at the end of our walk down through the old city, tired, looking for the albergue, plodding along and I look up and there is this lovely little girl in a beautiful dress blowing bubbles.  I asked her and her mother if I could take a photo and they graciously agreed.  Ah, the world is truly small and glorious.  Thank you all for your kind words, your well wishes and your support.  Knowing your thoughts  and love are wafting my way puts wind in my sails.  Love to you all,  Camille on the Camino

Hola dear ones,

We made it from Los Arcos to Viana today a total of approximately 12 miles.  We thought we would have a shorter day today due to the long hot day yesterday, but we arrived at our first destination way to early in the day to call it quits for the day and besides we were feeling frisky. Well, by the time we made Viana today, frisky would not be a word I would use.  We left at 7:15 and arrived around 1:00.  The reason we were so frisky in the morning was base solely on fear of the harsh sun.  We wanted to get as many miles under our belt as possible before the heat of the day and the beating sun was upon us.  Soaking the bandanas, my new best friend, helped alot.  

Here are some ramblings about today.  It never ceases to amaze me when I am depleted, run ragged and generally feeling exhaused that something appears to lighten my load.  All along the Camino on the path, there have been copious amounts of raspberry bushes.  And yes, they are ripe.  Stopping to feast a bit on the berries is such a delight and they taste soooo sweet.  There must have been a bad fire in the vinyards walking between these two towns as they charred remains of vines and underbursh and in some cases a house, was evident in numerous places.  The contrast once again was the new vines growing along side the burned out section.  Okay I have to go know I will give another intallment when I get some more change.  Love me

Hola.,
Some of my lessons on the Camino. Seem to come from technology.  One moment all is well and the next nothing works.  It has been hot hot hot here. With temps at 32 celsius or around 90 degrees F.  The sun has been harsh and we walked 13 miles today with little or no shade.  Yesterday I gained a while new respect for the sun as I think I suffered a bit of heat exhaustion.   We stayed in Estrella in a large alburge that aha about 32 beds in it. I think because I looked so spent the host if the Refugio Sao she a small private room witha bunk bed.  I was grateful even when the small private room turned out to be a corner of the room separates by plywood and open the the ceiling.  We do have our own door and it afforded ne some much needs privacy as I was spent.  Connie and gay went out die dinner and I remained in my roo
Ti recuperate.  Apparently it worked as I was able Ti finish the walk today and feel fine albeit tired.  As day 9 ends I realize more and more the enormity if this pilgrimage. One of the harshest sections is to come called the Maseta. Almost a high desert. We plan to walk in the middle of the night ti avoid the heat.  But that isn'tfor awhile yet so we have more time to prepare.    Sorry about my spelling.  The self correct takes over sometimes.   I might get on a computer thus evening sometime, but nit sure.  We are tired. Ready for food and early bed.   Yesterday when I was feeling tired and depleted and we were passing through a small town. I heard happy birthday wafting through an open window with blended adult and children's voices.   The melody and sentiment the same only the language different.   Will right more later.  Thanks for your love and support.  Camille on the Camino  

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Hola. I am sitting in an Alburgue in Los Arcos after an arduous walk from Estrella.  The terrain itself wasn't as steep as others we've traversed , but the sun  was relentless and there was NO shade.  We have had beautiful blue cloudless skies and no humidity, but the sun is harsh and it can drain you before you know it.  In fact I didn't write yesterday because I misjudged the intensity of the sun and found myself struggling with heat exhaustion.  When we reached the municipal Refugio which is usually a large facility with  lots of bunk beds and a definite hostel feel with this particular Refugio in a large old building with Marble steps I must have looked beat. The hospitelero led us to a large room with 16 bunk beds with only the top ones available.  She said There was a small room with 1 bunk Bed  which we took gladly. It turns out it was the cleaning supply  room with open at the top plywood walls and a door. What it afforded us was privacy and place for me to rest out of the masses.  To me this was a small Camino miracle.  You find them all along the way.  I begin to appreciate more and more the simple pleasures of a good bed, good ear plugs, a juicy peach or orange in the middle of the day and a fountain of cold  water just when you think you will dry up and blow away. Not to mention the kindness of other pilgrims checking in wirh you if you are stopped . At one point yesterday when I was beginning to feel the weight and sun of the day bearing down on me I was walking through a village and out of a window head adults and children singing happy birthday.  The melody and sentiment the same only the words different.  Well I am feeling better and as  day 9 of walking is over and I reflect on my time walking the Camino I realize that this path is challenging me in ways that have not become evident.  It can be grueling and rewarding all in the same instant. And as always scenery that is stunning.  Oh one more thing. Today when we were looking for shade we saw an old stone stricture up a small hill.  We walked ip ther and aat in the glorious shade and ate grapes right off the vine.  They were oh my god delicious and helped give us some additional fortitude to plow onward.   Love to you all and I love hearing back from you.   Take care.  Carpe Diem. Camille on the Camino
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Hola my friends,  I am gesturing and word stumbling my way through Spain, but the mere fact that I attempt to communicate with people brings a smile to their faces.  Last night though I learned that animal sounds to a 1 year old are the same in Spanish as in  English.  The refugio where we stayed  last night, Wednesday, which was more like a Restaurant downstairs and a Pilgrim Refugio upstairs, was hosted by a woman who had a one year old  child and was  also 8 months pregnant.  She was efficient and patient with all the pilgrims as they  came stumbling in, tired, hot, wanting a cold drink and a bed and a shower.  It is hard to describe the relief you feel when you come upon a refugio you want to call home for the night and they reply yes to your earnest question do you have a bed for me?   Ahhhhhhhh what a relief.  At this point we haven´t had a problem getting a bed, but we found out to our surprise that September is the busiest time to walk the Camino.  Go Figure.  We thought it was in the summer, and I´ve been told it is also very busy then as well, but for people averse to the heat, September is what they prefer.  I also think alot of European pilgrims walk in August because that is when they usually take holiday.

   We got out the door this morning, but had a rather short day because of a lengthy stop at a cafe in Obanos, a town known to house the skull of St William in a silver reliquary.  We did not get to see that, as we were engaged in good conversation with other pilgrims and engrossed in drinking cafe leche and eating a  bocadilla (sandwich)  basically an egg sandwich on amazing bread.  My understanding is that there is usually potato in them as well, but we haven´t had that as of yet.   I am now hooked on strong coffee with warmed milk.  It is delicious and hits the spot after a couple of hours walking.   We started this morning around 7 and saw the sun rise as we walked along our first vinyard with full purple grapes hannging from the vines.  Gay and I saw clouds in the blue sky that looked like rippling water.  I´ve never seen anything like that before.  We stood there spell bound as they rippled away and other shapes took their place.   We also started our day with a detour off the Way to visit Eunate where we found a beautiful 12th century Ramanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate.  This church has been linked with the Knights Templar who defended the pilgrim on the route to Santiago.  It is octagonal in shape and has a beautiful folk Spanish Folk Art representation of the Virgin Mary and Jesus.  We didn´t know that the caretaker was leaving early that day, so it was a real gift that we were able to get in to see the church as he was getting ready to close when we got there.  He graciously stayed open a bit  longer for us so we could visit the inside.   There is also a small refugio there but only has 8 beds and we had decided to not attempt the longer hike last night to reach it.  I  had met a father and son from Montana who were carrying their bag pipes with them and were going to play there. so  I had hoped to be there to hear that, but they were hiking a much faster pace than us and we missed them.  This happens on The Way.   You meet incredible people and as is in life, nothing is permanent.    

 The last leg of our trip into Maneru was in full sun and up hill up hill and really up hill for a short stretch.  We didn´t know that was coming, so in this case ignorance is bliss.   It always feels so good when you get to the top and see the village down below.  As I said in an earlier post, Gay and I are both getting stronger and each day we get into a rhythm that is unique to the Camino.   This Refugio, Lurgorri,  the  first refugio we came to upon entering town, has 12 beds and we have our own little kitchenette, stove, microwave, and outside courtyard where we can wash clothes and hang them.   Most of the pìlgrims are writing, reading, chatting, showering, and doing laundry.  What we usually do at the end of a long day.  There is not dinner served here, but breakfast, which is usually bread, butter, jam, and coffee, enough to get you started on the day and until you decided to stop and have a more substantial fueling a  couple of hours into the walk. Well, someone else is wanting to use this FREE computer.  A first on our walk.  Usually they are 2 E for 40 minutes.  So love to you all, and keep us in your heart.  Camille on the Camino  

  Hello everyone. Sorry about my last post and the out of place cancer information.  Somehow that is in my email base somewhere. Well on to more stories from the Camino.  Every day brings new adventures and new people into my life.  Yesterday we stayed in Pamplona after a restful night in the German run Refugio.  Restful because I finally pulled ou my ear plugs.  A very very important item to bring along on this journey. You never know who will be sleeping in the bunk above, below, or next to you.  I think I mentioned our group last night of mainly Canadian, Japanese and American.  This is truly an international experience with snippets of diverse languages floating through the air to accompany you as you walk.  I am embarrassed at times to be so lacking in the language aspect of my life and I intend to remedy that upon my return.  We were up early this morning around 5:45 and keg the refugio my 6:20 or so.   We arrived in Uterga after Walking 17.5 kilometers over rough rocky terrain through beautiful cut wheat fields and large fields of dried sunflowers that I imagine is harvested for sunflower oil.  The sky was undecided today and shifted from sun to cloudy to rain in the distant back to sun and then wind wind and wind.  It felt glorious. All along the mountain ridge were windmills many many windmills which stood like sentries  to guide us upward.  And today we reached the Alto del Perdon altitude 790 meters.  This is where the wrought iron representatives of Medevial pilgrims is found. If you have seen the movie TheWay these figures are shown in the movie and the walk up to that point was long and steep but not as steep and intense as our first 2 days in the Pyrenees. I do believe however that  we are getting stronger and building our stamina.  Today we walked about 8 hours with breaks and photo ops. I will try to send a picture but not sure it will work.  We are at a refugio restaurant bar in Uterga In a room with about 16 beds a total of 8 bunk beds.  We walked with Andy from Australia today and he,  Tuan from DC now from Viet nam,  and Don from Louisiana  are my bunk mates in the far end of the room near the window.   They are bright articulate men and We had snippets  of  insightful conversation that has given me  some food for thought in between attempts to connect to the available wii fi.  The temperature has dropped and I am getting chilly which is a new experience for me on this trip.  More to come.  Connie, Gay and I are now sitting here trying to figure out our day for tomorrow.   Planning to go to Eunate Church which is 2.4 kilometers off the way through Puente la Reina onto   Maneru or Cirauqui   I am amazed daily and am awestruck that so much has happened already an I've only been walking since Friday a total of 5 days.  We've been in Europe for 8 days and Spain since Saturday.     Love to you all. Camille on the Camino

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Hi all,  

Camille from the Camino sitting outside Albergue Casa Paderborn a German run Albergue that is turn in concert with the Spanish town of Pamplona. No running of the bulls only the walking of pilgrims and tourists and locals.  I just has a wet golden retriever pass by the bench where I am sitting with a stick in it's mouth.  Ah some things are the same all over the world.   We walked about another 10 miles today, but we started much earlier and therefore did most of our walk before the hot sun began it's ascent in the sky. I realize now why the Spanish take a siesta every afternoon they have a healthy respect for the sun. 

 

While walking today I looked up and saw what appeared to be a large group of people walking towards. A the time I was walking with a young woman from Poland.  Soon we were Passing a large group of Spanish soldiers in full fatigues with rifles, some smiling when I said hilarious, but most only nodding of that.  Very young and I must say very handsome :).    We later passed what we though might be a military training facility but not sure about that. 

 

Once again a mixture of Environments, a rushing river with a damn that made it thunderous,  a  busy highway sounding very much like 81 or the turnpike,  a beautiful tree lined forest along the river and then we hit the city of Pamplona.  A kittle jarring after the quiet beauty of the Pyryneea yet the beauty is jere in the history the friendly people and the tapas.  Yea qw walked into the old town for tapas ice-cream and food for our picnic on the trail tomorrow.  Tomorrow will be a day of up hills to the windmill area that is in the movie and the metal figures on the mountain.  There us a small church Refugio that we want to visit and hopefully stay, but they only have 8 spaces and or depends if we can get a spot.  We wi

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Hello everyone from Spain and the Camino,

  Life is good and I am grateful for my feet and my strength.  This is certainly no walk in the park and the landscape and walking trails vary from soft leaf covered tree lined paths to hard made made concrete paths through an industrial  stone grinding operation spewing smoke and lots of noise.  This too is part of the camino as is the hot hot sun and the cool shade, the rhythmic clicking of walking sticks, the laughter of pilgrims as they walk, the every ready Buen Camino as you pass another pilgrim and the groans of pleasure as you come upon a cold water source to quench your thirst and cool your head and neck.  I feel very alive and present and I tear up as I write this.  The Camino is truly about paradox and opposites.  It is an incredible teacher and a gift.  

 

  It was a long hard day in the sun after a delightful dinner prepared by our Basque host of fish, bread, french fries, and a fried egg and a salad of freshly picked cucumbers, tomatoes and onions from the garden.  Apparently the She also gave us a sheep milk custard type dish that she was very proud of that was enhanced with honey.  We went back to her beautiful home, which is new, yet old.  Beams and amazing wood and hardwood floors and tile, yet new construction.  I have pictures I will share when I can figure out how.  Anyway, we had a typical breakfast of bread, butter, and jam and she gave us fresh squeezed orange juice.  I mean fresh. It was DELICIOUS !!!!!  Did I tell you how good it was?    Then she packed up a lunch with freshly made bread, egg and cheese.   We ate that delicious lunch soaking our feet under an ancient roman bridge in cold water.   That was very restorative and helped pull us over the top when we began to tire.  As I said early the day was long and hot.  Our first 10 mile day.  I am still a beginner at transferring kilometers and miles.   As a major contrast, tonight we are staying in Larrasoana at a municipal alburgue.  There is a large room next to this computer room that sleeps around 30 people and upstairs we are in a room with 4 people all bunkbeds.  My bunk mates are Connie from Canada, a woman we´ve been walking with since Orrisson, and a father and son from Australia.  I was so tired and there were no restaurants open in this town except for a small Supermacardo, which would be similar in the USA to a comination Vinnies and a small small corner store like the Kings Gap store, only much much smaller.  Her son is a film producer and was involved in the making of the movie The Way.  She has pictures of her and Martin Sheen and Emilio hanging behind the counter.  She was very very stressed this evening as pilgrims were standning in line for food.  We would open the freezer door and look for what we wanted, standing there wasting the good cold are.  She would yell at each batch of new pilgrims who would enter and do the same thing over and over.  She softened a bit when I asked about the photos and thanked her for being there.  We all want to be acknowledged.  Which brings me to all of you. I feel your love and support for me on this pilgrimage and I am blessed to have all of you touch me in my life.   You are walking this with me, believe me.  Tomorrow we plan to start to walk by 6:30 as we want to beat the heat.  We might have rain as it was raining earlier.  We´ll see.  No raind days off for us, that´s why I have a rain coat with me.  Tomorrow is another long day, to Pamplona.  We are planning to stay there tomorrow evening and then continue on.  Alot of people stay there an extra day, but we want to build that day in later in our journey.  There were 3 other people walking with us 2 from Georgia and 1 from Washington, but they decided to see if there were accomodations in a town before Larrasoana.   I hope it worked out for them.  They were totally spent and could not imagine walking any further.  I seem to be holding up.  I am keeping a close eye on my feet as blisters are evil and not to be entertained in any way.