Sunday, September 16, 2012

Hola dear ones,
We made it from Los Arcos to Viana today a total of approximately 12 miles.  We thought we would have a shorter day today due to the long hot day yesterday, but we arrived at our first destination way to early in the day to call it quits for the day and besides we were feeling frisky. Well, by the time we made Viana today, frisky would not be a word I would use.  We left at 7:15 and arrived around 1:00.  The reason we were so frisky in the morning was base solely on fear of the harsh sun.  We wanted to get as many miles under our belt as possible before the heat of the day and the beating sun was upon us.  Soaking the bandanas, my new best friend, helped alot.  
Here are some ramblings about today.  It never ceases to amaze me when I am depleted, run ragged and generally feeling exhaused that something appears to lighten my load.  All along the Camino on the path, there have been copious amounts of raspberry bushes.  And yes, they are ripe.  Stopping to feast a bit on the berries is such a delight and they taste soooo sweet.  There must have been a bad fire in the vinyards walking between these two towns as they charred remains of vines and underbursh and in some cases a house, was evident in numerous places.  The contrast once again was the new vines growing along side the burned out section.  Okay I have to go know I will give another intallment when I get some more change.  Love me

Saturday, September 15, 2012

Hola.,
Some of my lessons on the Camino. Seem to come from technology.  One moment all is well and the next nothing works.  It has been hot hot hot here. With temps at 32 celsius or around 90 degrees F.  The sun has been harsh and we walked 13 miles today with little or no shade.  Yesterday I gained a while new respect for the sun as I think I suffered a bit of heat exhaustion.   We stayed in Estrella in a large alburge that aha about 32 beds in it. I think because I looked so spent the host if the Refugio Sao she a small private room witha bunk bed.  I was grateful even when the small private room turned out to be a corner of the room separates by plywood and open the the ceiling.  We do have our own door and it afforded ne some much needs privacy as I was spent.  Connie and gay went out die dinner and I remained in my roo
Ti recuperate.  Apparently it worked as I was able Ti finish the walk today and feel fine albeit tired.  As day 9 ends I realize more and more the enormity if this pilgrimage. One of the harshest sections is to come called the Maseta. Almost a high desert. We plan to walk in the middle of the night ti avoid the heat.  But that isn'tfor awhile yet so we have more time to prepare.    Sorry about my spelling.  The self correct takes over sometimes.   I might get on a computer thus evening sometime, but nit sure.  We are tired. Ready for food and early bed.   Yesterday when I was feeling tired and depleted and we were passing through a small town. I heard happy birthday wafting through an open window with blended adult and children's voices.   The melody and sentiment the same only the language different.   Will right more later.  Thanks for your love and support.  Camille on the Camino  

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Hola. I am sitting in an Alburgue in Los Arcos after an arduous walk from Estrella.  The terrain itself wasn't as steep as others we've traversed , but the sun  was relentless and there was NO shade.  We have had beautiful blue cloudless skies and no humidity, but the sun is harsh and it can drain you before you know it.  In fact I didn't write yesterday because I misjudged the intensity of the sun and found myself struggling with heat exhaustion.  When we reached the municipal Refugio which is usually a large facility with  lots of bunk beds and a definite hostel feel with this particular Refugio in a large old building with Marble steps I must have looked beat. The hospitelero led us to a large room with 16 bunk beds with only the top ones available.  She said There was a small room with 1 bunk Bed  which we took gladly. It turns out it was the cleaning supply  room with open at the top plywood walls and a door. What it afforded us was privacy and place for me to rest out of the masses.  To me this was a small Camino miracle.  You find them all along the way.  I begin to appreciate more and more the simple pleasures of a good bed, good ear plugs, a juicy peach or orange in the middle of the day and a fountain of cold  water just when you think you will dry up and blow away. Not to mention the kindness of other pilgrims checking in wirh you if you are stopped . At one point yesterday when I was beginning to feel the weight and sun of the day bearing down on me I was walking through a village and out of a window head adults and children singing happy birthday.  The melody and sentiment the same only the words different.  Well I am feeling better and as  day 9 of walking is over and I reflect on my time walking the Camino I realize that this path is challenging me in ways that have not become evident.  It can be grueling and rewarding all in the same instant. And as always scenery that is stunning.  Oh one more thing. Today when we were looking for shade we saw an old stone stricture up a small hill.  We walked ip ther and aat in the glorious shade and ate grapes right off the vine.  They were oh my god delicious and helped give us some additional fortitude to plow onward.   Love to you all and I love hearing back from you.   Take care.  Carpe Diem. Camille on the Camino
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Thursday, September 13, 2012

Hola my friends,  I am gesturing and word stumbling my way through Spain, but the mere fact that I attempt to communicate with people brings a smile to their faces.  Last night though I learned that animal sounds to a 1 year old are the same in Spanish as in  English.  The refugio where we stayed  last night, Wednesday, which was more like a Restaurant downstairs and a Pilgrim Refugio upstairs, was hosted by a woman who had a one year old  child and was  also 8 months pregnant.  She was efficient and patient with all the pilgrims as they  came stumbling in, tired, hot, wanting a cold drink and a bed and a shower.  It is hard to describe the relief you feel when you come upon a refugio you want to call home for the night and they reply yes to your earnest question do you have a bed for me?   Ahhhhhhhh what a relief.  At this point we haven´t had a problem getting a bed, but we found out to our surprise that September is the busiest time to walk the Camino.  Go Figure.  We thought it was in the summer, and I´ve been told it is also very busy then as well, but for people averse to the heat, September is what they prefer.  I also think alot of European pilgrims walk in August because that is when they usually take holiday.
   We got out the door this morning, but had a rather short day because of a lengthy stop at a cafe in Obanos, a town known to house the skull of St William in a silver reliquary.  We did not get to see that, as we were engaged in good conversation with other pilgrims and engrossed in drinking cafe leche and eating a  bocadilla (sandwich)  basically an egg sandwich on amazing bread.  My understanding is that there is usually potato in them as well, but we haven´t had that as of yet.   I am now hooked on strong coffee with warmed milk.  It is delicious and hits the spot after a couple of hours walking.   We started this morning around 7 and saw the sun rise as we walked along our first vinyard with full purple grapes hannging from the vines.  Gay and I saw clouds in the blue sky that looked like rippling water.  I´ve never seen anything like that before.  We stood there spell bound as they rippled away and other shapes took their place.   We also started our day with a detour off the Way to visit Eunate where we found a beautiful 12th century Ramanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate.  This church has been linked with the Knights Templar who defended the pilgrim on the route to Santiago.  It is octagonal in shape and has a beautiful folk Spanish Folk Art representation of the Virgin Mary and Jesus.  We didn´t know that the caretaker was leaving early that day, so it was a real gift that we were able to get in to see the church as he was getting ready to close when we got there.  He graciously stayed open a bit  longer for us so we could visit the inside.   There is also a small refugio there but only has 8 beds and we had decided to not attempt the longer hike last night to reach it.  I  had met a father and son from Montana who were carrying their bag pipes with them and were going to play there. so  I had hoped to be there to hear that, but they were hiking a much faster pace than us and we missed them.  This happens on The Way.   You meet incredible people and as is in life, nothing is permanent.    
 The last leg of our trip into Maneru was in full sun and up hill up hill and really up hill for a short stretch.  We didn´t know that was coming, so in this case ignorance is bliss.   It always feels so good when you get to the top and see the village down below.  As I said in an earlier post, Gay and I are both getting stronger and each day we get into a rhythm that is unique to the Camino.   This Refugio, Lurgorri,  the  first refugio we came to upon entering town, has 12 beds and we have our own little kitchenette, stove, microwave, and outside courtyard where we can wash clothes and hang them.   Most of the pìlgrims are writing, reading, chatting, showering, and doing laundry.  What we usually do at the end of a long day.  There is not dinner served here, but breakfast, which is usually bread, butter, jam, and coffee, enough to get you started on the day and until you decided to stop and have a more substantial fueling a  couple of hours into the walk. Well, someone else is wanting to use this FREE computer.  A first on our walk.  Usually they are 2 E for 40 minutes.  So love to you all, and keep us in your heart.  Camille on the Camino  

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

  Hello everyone. Sorry about my last post and the out of place cancer information.  Somehow that is in my email base somewhere. Well on to more stories from the Camino.  Every day brings new adventures and new people into my life.  Yesterday we stayed in Pamplona after a restful night in the German run Refugio.  Restful because I finally pulled ou my ear plugs.  A very very important item to bring along on this journey. You never know who will be sleeping in the bunk above, below, or next to you.  I think I mentioned our group last night of mainly Canadian, Japanese and American.  This is truly an international experience with snippets of diverse languages floating through the air to accompany you as you walk.  I am embarrassed at times to be so lacking in the language aspect of my life and I intend to remedy that upon my return.  We were up early this morning around 5:45 and keg the refugio my 6:20 or so.   We arrived in Uterga after Walking 17.5 kilometers over rough rocky terrain through beautiful cut wheat fields and large fields of dried sunflowers that I imagine is harvested for sunflower oil.  The sky was undecided today and shifted from sun to cloudy to rain in the distant back to sun and then wind wind and wind.  It felt glorious. All along the mountain ridge were windmills many many windmills which stood like sentries  to guide us upward.  And today we reached the Alto del Perdon altitude 790 meters.  This is where the wrought iron representatives of Medevial pilgrims is found. If you have seen the movie TheWay these figures are shown in the movie and the walk up to that point was long and steep but not as steep and intense as our first 2 days in the Pyrenees. I do believe however that  we are getting stronger and building our stamina.  Today we walked about 8 hours with breaks and photo ops. I will try to send a picture but not sure it will work.  We are at a refugio restaurant bar in Uterga In a room with about 16 beds a total of 8 bunk beds.  We walked with Andy from Australia today and he,  Tuan from DC now from Viet nam,  and Don from Louisiana  are my bunk mates in the far end of the room near the window.   They are bright articulate men and We had snippets  of  insightful conversation that has given me  some food for thought in between attempts to connect to the available wii fi.  The temperature has dropped and I am getting chilly which is a new experience for me on this trip.  More to come.  Connie, Gay and I are now sitting here trying to figure out our day for tomorrow.   Planning to go to Eunate Church which is 2.4 kilometers off the way through Puente la Reina onto   Maneru or Cirauqui   I am amazed daily and am awestruck that so much has happened already an I've only been walking since Friday a total of 5 days.  We've been in Europe for 8 days and Spain since Saturday.     Love to you all. Camille on the Camino

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Tuesday, September 11, 2012


Hi all,  
Camille from the Camino sitting outside Albergue Casa Paderborn a German run Albergue that is turn in concert with the Spanish town of Pamplona. No running of the bulls only the walking of pilgrims and tourists and locals.  I just has a wet golden retriever pass by the bench where I am sitting with a stick in it's mouth.  Ah some things are the same all over the world.   We walked about another 10 miles today, but we started much earlier and therefore did most of our walk before the hot sun began it's ascent in the sky. I realize now why the Spanish take a siesta every afternoon they have a healthy respect for the sun. 
 
While walking today I looked up and saw what appeared to be a large group of people walking towards. A the time I was walking with a young woman from Poland.  Soon we were Passing a large group of Spanish soldiers in full fatigues with rifles, some smiling when I said hilarious, but most only nodding of that.  Very young and I must say very handsome :).    We later passed what we though might be a military training facility but not sure about that. 
 
Once again a mixture of Environments, a rushing river with a damn that made it thunderous,  a  busy highway sounding very much like 81 or the turnpike,  a beautiful tree lined forest along the river and then we hit the city of Pamplona.  A kittle jarring after the quiet beauty of the Pyryneea yet the beauty is jere in the history the friendly people and the tapas.  Yea qw walked into the old town for tapas ice-cream and food for our picnic on the trail tomorrow.  Tomorrow will be a day of up hills to the windmill area that is in the movie and the metal figures on the mountain.  There us a small church Refugio that we want to visit and hopefully stay, but they only have 8 spaces and or depends if we can get a spot.  We wi
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Monday, September 10, 2012

Hello everyone from Spain and the Camino,
  Life is good and I am grateful for my feet and my strength.  This is certainly no walk in the park and the landscape and walking trails vary from soft leaf covered tree lined paths to hard made made concrete paths through an industrial  stone grinding operation spewing smoke and lots of noise.  This too is part of the camino as is the hot hot sun and the cool shade, the rhythmic clicking of walking sticks, the laughter of pilgrims as they walk, the every ready Buen Camino as you pass another pilgrim and the groans of pleasure as you come upon a cold water source to quench your thirst and cool your head and neck.  I feel very alive and present and I tear up as I write this.  The Camino is truly about paradox and opposites.  It is an incredible teacher and a gift.  
 
  It was a long hard day in the sun after a delightful dinner prepared by our Basque host of fish, bread, french fries, and a fried egg and a salad of freshly picked cucumbers, tomatoes and onions from the garden.  Apparently the She also gave us a sheep milk custard type dish that she was very proud of that was enhanced with honey.  We went back to her beautiful home, which is new, yet old.  Beams and amazing wood and hardwood floors and tile, yet new construction.  I have pictures I will share when I can figure out how.  Anyway, we had a typical breakfast of bread, butter, and jam and she gave us fresh squeezed orange juice.  I mean fresh. It was DELICIOUS !!!!!  Did I tell you how good it was?    Then she packed up a lunch with freshly made bread, egg and cheese.   We ate that delicious lunch soaking our feet under an ancient roman bridge in cold water.   That was very restorative and helped pull us over the top when we began to tire.  As I said early the day was long and hot.  Our first 10 mile day.  I am still a beginner at transferring kilometers and miles.   As a major contrast, tonight we are staying in Larrasoana at a municipal alburgue.  There is a large room next to this computer room that sleeps around 30 people and upstairs we are in a room with 4 people all bunkbeds.  My bunk mates are Connie from Canada, a woman we´ve been walking with since Orrisson, and a father and son from Australia.  I was so tired and there were no restaurants open in this town except for a small Supermacardo, which would be similar in the USA to a comination Vinnies and a small small corner store like the Kings Gap store, only much much smaller.  Her son is a film producer and was involved in the making of the movie The Way.  She has pictures of her and Martin Sheen and Emilio hanging behind the counter.  She was very very stressed this evening as pilgrims were standning in line for food.  We would open the freezer door and look for what we wanted, standing there wasting the good cold are.  She would yell at each batch of new pilgrims who would enter and do the same thing over and over.  She softened a bit when I asked about the photos and thanked her for being there.  We all want to be acknowledged.  Which brings me to all of you. I feel your love and support for me on this pilgrimage and I am blessed to have all of you touch me in my life.   You are walking this with me, believe me.  Tomorrow we plan to start to walk by 6:30 as we want to beat the heat.  We might have rain as it was raining earlier.  We´ll see.  No raind days off for us, that´s why I have a rain coat with me.  Tomorrow is another long day, to Pamplona.  We are planning to stay there tomorrow evening and then continue on.  Alot of people stay there an extra day, but we want to build that day in later in our journey.  There were 3 other people walking with us 2 from Georgia and 1 from Washington, but they decided to see if there were accomodations in a town before Larrasoana.   I hope it worked out for them.  They were totally spent and could not imagine walking any further.  I seem to be holding up.  I am keeping a close eye on my feet as blisters are evil and not to be entertained in any way.