Hola my friends,  I am gesturing and word stumbling my way through Spain, but the mere fact that I attempt to communicate with people brings a smile to their faces.  Last night though I learned that animal sounds to a 1 year old are the same in Spanish as in  English.  The refugio where we stayed  last night, Wednesday, which was more like a Restaurant downstairs and a Pilgrim Refugio upstairs, was hosted by a woman who had a one year old  child and was  also 8 months pregnant.  She was efficient and patient with all the pilgrims as they  came stumbling in, tired, hot, wanting a cold drink and a bed and a shower.  It is hard to describe the relief you feel when you come upon a refugio you want to call home for the night and they reply yes to your earnest question do you have a bed for me?   Ahhhhhhhh what a relief.  At this point we haven´t had a problem getting a bed, but we found out to our surprise that September is the busiest time to walk the Camino.  Go Figure.  We thought it was in the summer, and I´ve been told it is also very busy then as well, but for people averse to the heat, September is what they prefer.  I also think alot of European pilgrims walk in August because that is when they usually take holiday.

   We got out the door this morning, but had a rather short day because of a lengthy stop at a cafe in Obanos, a town known to house the skull of St William in a silver reliquary.  We did not get to see that, as we were engaged in good conversation with other pilgrims and engrossed in drinking cafe leche and eating a  bocadilla (sandwich)  basically an egg sandwich on amazing bread.  My understanding is that there is usually potato in them as well, but we haven´t had that as of yet.   I am now hooked on strong coffee with warmed milk.  It is delicious and hits the spot after a couple of hours walking.   We started this morning around 7 and saw the sun rise as we walked along our first vinyard with full purple grapes hannging from the vines.  Gay and I saw clouds in the blue sky that looked like rippling water.  I´ve never seen anything like that before.  We stood there spell bound as they rippled away and other shapes took their place.   We also started our day with a detour off the Way to visit Eunate where we found a beautiful 12th century Ramanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate.  This church has been linked with the Knights Templar who defended the pilgrim on the route to Santiago.  It is octagonal in shape and has a beautiful folk Spanish Folk Art representation of the Virgin Mary and Jesus.  We didn´t know that the caretaker was leaving early that day, so it was a real gift that we were able to get in to see the church as he was getting ready to close when we got there.  He graciously stayed open a bit  longer for us so we could visit the inside.   There is also a small refugio there but only has 8 beds and we had decided to not attempt the longer hike last night to reach it.  I  had met a father and son from Montana who were carrying their bag pipes with them and were going to play there. so  I had hoped to be there to hear that, but they were hiking a much faster pace than us and we missed them.  This happens on The Way.   You meet incredible people and as is in life, nothing is permanent.    

 The last leg of our trip into Maneru was in full sun and up hill up hill and really up hill for a short stretch.  We didn´t know that was coming, so in this case ignorance is bliss.   It always feels so good when you get to the top and see the village down below.  As I said in an earlier post, Gay and I are both getting stronger and each day we get into a rhythm that is unique to the Camino.   This Refugio, Lurgorri,  the  first refugio we came to upon entering town, has 12 beds and we have our own little kitchenette, stove, microwave, and outside courtyard where we can wash clothes and hang them.   Most of the pìlgrims are writing, reading, chatting, showering, and doing laundry.  What we usually do at the end of a long day.  There is not dinner served here, but breakfast, which is usually bread, butter, jam, and coffee, enough to get you started on the day and until you decided to stop and have a more substantial fueling a  couple of hours into the walk. Well, someone else is wanting to use this FREE computer.  A first on our walk.  Usually they are 2 E for 40 minutes.  So love to you all, and keep us in your heart.  Camille on the Camino