Friday, September 21, 2012

Hola To all of you. Here it is I believe Thursday our 14th day on the 
Camino. This morning was overcast and foggy with low temperatures and 
of course no sun.  It felt glorious to walk with the subdued weather. 
Because we decided to have an easy day walking from Belorado to 
Villafranca  de Montes de Oca  a total of about 12 k or about 7 1/2 
miles we took our time walking in a leisurely fashion taking lots of 
photos stopping for cafe con leche which we usually do after we've 
walked a bit. We also felt less pressure because we called ahead to 
reserve a room in a private alburgue. The municipal alburgues are 
usually larger with multiple bunk beds up to 50 or 75 or more in 
one or two large rooms and they will not let you reserve ahead. 
They are very cheap price wise from a donation to 5 euros.  The private 
alburgues are much smaller and sometimes offer alot of amenities. 
They take reservations and can range in price from 5 to 25 or 30 euros 
per person.  We have been using a Camino Frances guide book by John 
Brierley called a pilgrims guide to the Camino de Santiago covering 
the Camino from St Jean to Santiago.  It is full of invaluable 
information from directions to historical information to the maps 
and mileage to the names of the towns where the cafes  are located 
and names of places to stay with the phone numbers.  So because we 
have the phone numbers and my cell phone has been cooperating as of 
late,  We were able to call ahead and reserve an alburgue attached 
to a luxury hotel.  So at this moment I am tucked away in a very 
 nook on the 2nd or 3rd floor of this hotel.  My accommodations which 
are much more modest are tucked in the back and I'm sure I probably 
should not be up here with my pilgrim clothing and dishelved look, 
but as  I said I am tucked away  and  here I am until told otherwise. 
Ah once again the paradox of the Camino.  It says in the guide book 
that the owner of this lovely hotel walked the Camino himself and 
wanted to give back so he apportioned a section of his hotel to pilgrims. 
The name of this place is San Anton Abad  and I offer a great thank you 
to this generous person. A bunk bed was 5 euros and a single bed was 
10 euros.  We have a small kitchen and laundry facilities. I feel the 
urge for a cup of tea coming upon me.  Perhaps a bit later.  A highlight 
of today was coming upon a very large field of sunflowers that were 
still in flower form and not all dried up ready for harvest.  Steig 
from Canada and Elmarie  from Australia who met on the Camino and have 
become a couple were the first ones to seize this amazing photo op, 
with Grace  a woman from connecticut, gay and I following suit.  The 
beauty of the flowers was enhanced by the artistic work of  Many 
pilgrims who pulled different petals from the flower face to form 
words and images.  So imagine a large field of sunflowers with different 
sections near the front looking like a sunflower art gallery.  We had a 
blast posing and laughing .   All of this is bittersweet because we 
may never cross paths with these people again.  Steig has to leave in a 
few days and Elmarie is busing to Burgos.  Our connections are brief 
sometimes on the Camino but their memories and teachings can last forever. 
Tomorrow will be a bit more of a challenge as we have some mountains to 
cross with the highest peak a bit over 1150 meters. It should be a beautiful 
walk through the woods.  We won't stay in San Juan but will more than likely 
continue on to Ages or Atapuerca which will be on Friday and then we will 
probably be in Burgos by Saturday or Sunday.   We haven't talked about 
whether we will stay an extra day in Burgos but what comes up after Burgos 
is the Meseta. We  will probably begin the Meseta next week. It is a high 
plateau that is open and vast and can bring those same qualities to a 
person if they desire. Well  it is about 2:30 here and I must shower and 
explore.  Much love to you all,  Camille on the Camino
 

1 comment:

  1. I LOVE your description of the sunflower art gallery. Have you come across any of the fences where pilgrims have woven sticks to create crosses? Those are oh so inspiring! It sounds as if you have really begun to appreciate the European way of life -- a much more relaxing lifestyle than we Americans who insist on rushing around. We buy our coffee to go; they buy theirs to consume while they chat in the plaza.
    The Albergue Ages, a municipal one in that town, is rather nice at 8E -- just thought you'd like to know.
    I recommend that you spend an extra day in Burgos. The cathedral is fantastic (and half price if you show your pilgrim credential), and the city is large enough to enjoy being a tourist. It's a great place to catch up with yourself. The municipal albergue is only 5E and very clean. There are also lots of cheap pensiones. Bill and I actually spent several days wandering around that city two summers ago. So, be a European, take your time:)

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